Wednesday, July 28, 2010

In the jungle, the mighty jungle...

Ok, so I'm a bit late...well, I started this post two months ago and got sidetracked with traveling around ecuador during my last weeks there. What an incredible experience! When I have a bit more time, I'll sit down and try to conjure up some insightful comments about the six months I spent in tht gorgeous country. For now, here's an entry about jungle cruisin' in the Cuyabeno Reserve in the eastern part of Ecuador.


The pipe you see just meters in front of someone's home is 300 miles long and transports crude oil across Ecuador. I wasn't that surprised to see a town called Shell in the jungly region (el Oriente) of the country.


My jungle posse: Manon from France and Barber & Job from Holland.



I literally couldn't stop myself from loudly humming & dah dah dah'ing the theme song from Indiana Jones on our 2.5 hour canoe ride to the lodge.



so cool



Fishing bats would come out at dusk each evening and commence their dive-bombing ritual as we gazed at them from the relative comfort of our giant tourist canoe.



Don't remember the name of this birdy, but he sure is purty. ;)



Our stilted accommodations at Jamu (armadillo) Lodge were quite awesome in their open-air, wood and thatch construction and offered easy access to all kinds of jungle visitors like toads, spiders (even tarantulas), and monkeys (the monkeys stayed in the trees circling the property).



Billy the Bass, I think you have some competition. Meet Pepe the Piranha! Oh yes, we went piranha fishing and I was the first to catch one (thanks to all the fishing trips with Daddy sprinkled with some dumb luck ;) ). We cooked one up, too...tasted like fish ;).




Sunset on Laguna Grande...muy romantico ;)



A lil guy just hanging out in the trees. Our guides were so good at spotting wildlife just by the reflection of the animals' eyes.



Caiman...jeepers.



Sir mix-a-lot's inspiration. I gasped in sheer excitement when we spotted this guy chillin' in a tree. Just to clarify, they aren't venomous...they'll just squeeze you to death. :)




A woman from one of the indigenous communities in the reserve cutting down the tree to pull out the roots (the edible part) of the yucca plant. We made yucca "tortillas."



I'm such a masochist...Our guide Rodrigo asked for a volunteer to lightly hit with the spiny ortiga plant...


Is that leprosy?! No, it's just the reaction from the ortiga plant. Apparently it improves circulation and is used in shamanic rituals, as well. At first, you don't feel anything, but then a gradual heat builds up in your skin as it turns bright red and huge mosquito bite-like welts appear. Luckily, the heat goes away after a bit and the welts disappear within several hours.



Nachoooooooo the monkey! He was the yucca woman's pet.



We met a shaman who works with the local community for their alternative medicine needs. To diagnose patients, he drinks ayahuasca or yague (derived from hallucinogenic plants) so that the rey de yague can appear and tell him what is ailing the patient. If natural healing isn't sufficient, he suggests that the patient visit a doctor of Western medicine.



The ortiga punishment, er, I mean, treatment. :) Just kidding. It is supposed to be helpful.




Yellow cacao pods can be opened to eat the fleshy part off of the seeds within.



Look at those shiny happy people. We painted our face with achiote seeds like the shaman. An Ecuadorian woman saw my face, started giggling, and took a picture. ;)



Ceibo tree. Huge like a sequoia.




After rowing for a few hours in a canoe, we reached a serene lake with gorgeous trees and underwater foliage (preventing any synchronized or regular swimming). It was quite an ethereal experience as we saw no other human beings for hours! Ahhhh, so nice.



The trees emerging from the water were hollow inside and very fragile, but many of them were home to some lovely orchids as well.





I removed the hook from this red-bellied piranha's mouth. It was a bit nerve-wracking since he could bite back! After finally catching a decent-sized silver piranha (which we're allowed to munch on), we headed to a little-known patch of land to eat lunch. We built a fire using some tree rubber for swifter ignition and cooked up our fishy friend. Quite yummy really.




Poky




This tree was covered with a white fungus which served some symbiotic purpose. It was called something like Devil's Bone Tree or something like that.



Our last night was a wet one...we embarked on a night hike armed with only ponchos and flashlights when it began to dump on us. The ponchos didn't really serve their purpose so we turned back and hung out in the dining room after dinner which was pretty fun because the rain brought all sorts of creatures seeking shelter including this toad hanging on the underside of the thatch roof.



An early morning bird-watching excursion yielded a few birds to behold, but my camera was misbehaving so I didn't catch the huatzin, a bird with dinosaur ancestors, but I did get a pic of a miniature toucan's silhouette.


A furry friend perched in the rafters in the dining room. Glad I didn't notice him 'til the morning we left!



Our jungle cat crew: some of the kitchen staff (Ecuadorian), Rodrigo (Ecuadorian), Irene (Dutch), Manon (French), Job & Barber (Dutch)


"Rollin' down a river!"

Tena Revisited

A week ago Wednesday I hitched a ride with my friend Kate to take one of her volunteers to a biological reserve near Tena called Jatun Sacha. We took a different route than the last time I went to Tena and it was absolutely stunning.



















Antisana volcano (possibly), over 18,000 feet.





































Our accommodations at Jatun Sacha. As long as there's mosquito netting, I'm a happy camper.

























Lots of interesting flora and fauna here at the reserve, including this furry flower reminiscent of a newborn bird and the creepy basilisk thing scurrying about Jatun Sacha's organic farm (below).









































Our afternoon chore was to clear the paths at the organic farm and cut down bananas. We took a short break to do show off our machetes.




















"Come mister tally man, tally me banana!"


















































































We did three pretty decent hikes in 12 hours and I was pretty pooped. The night hike was a bit scary with just flashlights and the light of the moon to guide us as we stumbled across lightning bugs, a water snake, a giant spider, sounds of froggies...










































On our morning hike, Kate and I ventured off by ourselves in search of a metal tower and green tree men (Alberto, volunteer coordinator at Jatun Sacha, regaled us with many tall tales during our brief time there). After an hour and a half of crossing slippery log bridges and stomping along the same path with no end in sight, our Blair Witch minds kicked in and we began to get a little nervous about being lost in the jungle, but by a stroke of sheer luck, the path dropped us off literally at our cabin doorstep! Phew!



















































































After our invigorating morning hike in the rain, Kate and I set off in search of amaZOOnico, a wildlife rescue center and refuge. A scenic motorized canoe ride allowed us to drink in the sights of the river (including folks pannin' for gold, $30 per gram) before we explored the reserve. A ton of depressing stories about the animals there sprinkled with a few accounts of successful animal releases into the wilderness.










































Macaws are actually really obnoxious and dangerous, but many people don't realize this until they've bought them on the black market and brought them home. So many animals are just abandoned after this realization.




















Capybara, so cool! Just a giant guinea pig, really. :)

























Peccary, sort of a wild pig that looks a bit like a porcupine, but check out the chompers on this guy!

























Gorgeous Amazon parrots...these guys get shipped 20 to a box and only one or two survive. But the profits from one parrot sold are enough to make people continue this practice.




















Tortoises hiding from the caiman...just kidding.




















Ocelot! Beautiful animals with a healthy carnivorous appetite!

***

The volunteer at the amaZOOnico rescue center told us of Capuchin monkeys that had been kept in a box for over 24 hours without food, water or sunlight so they literally went a bit crazy...one of them bit off a few of his own fingers and even part of his tail. Another monkey
(different species, maybe woolly) had lived in a zoo in Banos and wouldn't set a foot in nature, just concrete. A jaguarundi was discovered in a hotel room in a town called Loja...many stories like this, but the people at amaZOOnico are trying to help and have released many animals back into the wild after a rehabilitation period. Unforunately, some animals have been so severely abused or mistreated that they stand no chance in the wild and are permanent residents of the zoo.



















Kate and I hopped on a bus to Tena Thursday afternoon and prepared ourselves psychologically for some Class IV rafting the next day. What a day! We caught some amazing rapids and even had to get on land and hike around some dangerously rocky rapids and then repel down the rocky hillside to get back to the river. So cool! I almost slipped and died though. Hiking that treacherous terrain without my glasses was quite terrifying!























Relaxing on a remote mini beach before lunch. So tired, but oh so fun!!!!! Such adventures!!!!!