Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Same old Same (SAH-may)

Brace yourself...this blog's a novella. Directly below lie the insanely cool main characters: Cristina, Natalie, Olga, Pablo, Juan Carlos, & I).

(Wow, my bangs do not appreciate the humidity!)


This past weekend I traveled to Same (pronounced SAH-may) with Pablo and two friends, Juan Carlos and Cristina. Cristina's family owns a wicked awesome house in Same with a pool and jacuzzi (ironically the pool was warmer than the propane-heated jacuzzi) that's within walking distance of the beach. We arrived late Friday night, but didn't let the dark night stop us from enjoying our new surroundings. The only relief from the heat and humidity was a dip in the pool.































Juan Carlos couldn't wait to hop in!

Early the next morning, two new friends joined us, Olga and Natalie. With our motley crew complete, we could begin the relaxation and rejuvenation!





















The pool was surrounded by stunning green foliage. The spectacular fan palm and the flat top tree (and yes, these are the official botanist terms) are just a sampling of the greenery near the coast.













The backside of Cristina's house.





















These incredibly safe-looking mototaxis serve as the yellow cabs of the beach towns we visited.













Some local youths loitering about like hooligans! Kidding. The people from the coast are so relaxed and chill about everything. Many just hang out in front of their businesses and homes chatting and observing the world.




















Very few of the homes had glass in the windows, but featured screens or metal bars instead. I'm not sure if this one was inhabited or not, but it had plastic wrap over its windows.















On our way to the beach, we stopped at a local store to pick up some refreshments. As we continued walking, we noticed a clothing store with a sign listing how much the locals owed. Cabezita (little head) is a rather unfortunate nickname to be made public.

































As we got closer to the playa, some "monos" (people from the coast) approached Juan Carlos with menus of the beachfront restaurants















The beach in Same was quite lovely. The Pacific water was warm and churning with sand as we ducked under the tall waves. Just like the beaches at home, human influence was evident with a little trash here and there, but overall pretty nice.
























I don't know why, but I really wanted a picture atop this fallen tree. Not the best idea, perhaps, but it was invigorating trying to survive the powerful waves crashing against us!






















A CN joke waiting to be hatched!



















A gorgeous palm tree against an eerie backdrop.















So relaxed! (And the scenery past my friends at that moment wasn't too bad either!)




















Olga and I drank from fresh coconuts with the ends hacked off by machete. After I'd had my fill, I offered the innards to my scruffy friend.
































We returned to Cristina's house for a spell after a fabulous time at the beach. The path was a bit overgrown with foliage, but this only amplified the beach cottage's charm in my opinion.















What amazing and lush scenery we found ourselves surrounded by later on!



































Unfortunately, (wo)man cannot live on coconut juice alone, so we went off in search of nourishment and found ourselves in another small town, Tonchigue, in which the shore was covered in small fishing boats. Fishing boats are definitely a good sign!













La Casa de Francesca offered fresh and fried seafood at dangerously reasonable prices. :) I tried the ceviche mixto for $6 with shrimp, fish, and conch (whose texture was reminiscent of clam or escargot). Most plates came with patacones (fried plantains). Delectable!





























The heat and humidity drove a lot of people out of their stuffy houses and onto their porches.

The beach crew: Me, Pablo, Juan Carlos, Cristina, Olga, Natalie.
ahhhhhhhh















Craving a bit of nightlife, we wandered over to Atacames, a bigger beach town whose main road was lined with bars thumping with music and dancing. The sort of stereotypically thatched roofs and bamboo-like wooden huts were illuminated by bright florescent lights and swirling neon disco balls.




















The first bar we visited was covered with whole fruits like giant papayas, plantains, and pineapples.













The neighboring bar hut offered swings instead of bar-stools! Alas, we did not swing, but we sure did dance


We sipped some yummy cocktails garnished with huge chunks of fruit (even though mine was just a banana shake) and headed to the dance floor to salsa.











Raise the roof!










The poor gentleman behind us was a bit tuckered out. :)



This video doesn't do Atacames nightlife any justice as this was a rather tame song. :)
















In spite of the enormous lunch we had stuffed our faces with earlier, our tummies began to grumble so we stopped for some street food under tarps and umbrellas that shielded us from the rain.










Cristina and I shared a flattened and skewered piece of chicken meat (far right) which was quite tasty.















Some of us returned to the house for a nocturnal swim in the rain to cool ourselves off.




















We headed back to la Casa de Francesca for more scrumptious seafood on our lazy Sunday afternoon. The foreigners (Olga, Natalie, and I) almost licked our plates clean of the camarones apanados (fried shrimp shown on top). Pablo enjoyed fried fish with a salad of onions, peppers, and tomatoes (bottom).










Juan Carlos tried the lobster for a staggering $10! Dee-li-SHUSS! The lime-green beverage is Inca Kola: an incredibly sweet soda from Peru that tastes like a melted Otter Pop.

Just a few doors down from the restaurant I spied the sweetest sight to end on...a snuggle. :)


Very full and very happy, we said good-bye to Olga and Natalie at the bus station and the rest of us began the 5ish-hour trek to Quito around 5:30 p.m. In my customary travel fashion, I slept for about two-thirds of the journey. Due to a slight unplanned detour down a dark rural road, we arrived in Quito a bit later than anticipated, but I was out like a light as soon as my head it the pillow. Man, what a fun weekend! Just what I needed!

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Market in Otavalo

Yesterday, I went to a market in Otavalo which is about two hours north of Quito via bus. The bus ride cost $4 roundtrip. I took way too many photos, but they were all focused on details of the market. In hindsight, I wish I had taken pictures on a broader scope so one could see the labyrinth of hundreds of stalls spanning several blocks of this surprisingly modern town. I had expected to see a flea market of sorts flanked by more farmland and dilapidated houses as I had seen on the ride up. However, Otavalo seemed like a cleaner, quieter, smaller version of Quito. It was a much-needed retreat from the pollution and noise of the capital. I didn't purchase anything this time around as I took in all the sights, sounds, and smells of this wonderful place. I will definitely be returning!






Street vendors sold everything from grilled plantains (which I did try, but wasn't very impressed) to coconuts with the tops hacked off so a straw can be inserted.








A woman standing in front of an embroidered linen stand


A vendor emerges from his hammock "yurt" :)


I LOVED these masks, but I resisted temptation and just admired them rather than succumbing to old collector's habits.






The colorful jewelry on the left came from the tagua nuts/seeds (known as vegetable ivory) on the right.









Spanish conquistadors vs. indigenous people...a more poignant chess set has never existed!


My American friends Carrie and Jonathan were professional bargainers as they looked for scarves made of alpaca wool. I was so impressed!


Traditional blouses for women with lacy sleeves and colorful embroidery.

Decorated gourds

Hammock chairs that looked so inviting, but, alas, were too high to try out

!Cuidado! !Llamas! (Monty Python fans, this one's for you!)


Absolutely stunning jewelry adorning all the Otavalan women






The cutest little girls ever!!!






A woman selling bread, but mostly just chatting with a friend not pictured here


What better way to finish off the afternoon than with a chocolate & cheese pizza?! :)

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Museum

A common occurrence in the profession of teaching business English is that classes are canceled rather often (sometimes with a few minutes notice even). Since my late morning class was canceled today, I decided to visit an art exhibition within la Casa de Cultura Ecuatoriana as well as a museum there (el Museo Nacional del Banco Central de Ecuador).



I took notes like the big dork that I am and came away with some very interesting information...


The main exhibit was a collection of artifacts from the early inhabitants of Ecuador and other South American countries nearby. La Tolita people (600 antes de Cristo - 400 despues de Cristo) made clay figurines of men tied to platforms as either human sacrifices or as soon-to-be-circumcised youngsters. There were also a few erotic figures. The most interesting to me from this group were the figures of alligators and cats/lions because they reminded me of Chinese animal figures. We're all Asian!!! :)

The Jama-Coaque section (350 aC - 1533 dC) held a male figurine drugged and in a trance (probably from chewing coca). The Machalilla (1600 - 800 aC) exhibit included a replica of a device consisting of two small planks of wood strapped to a human skull (another replica) that was used to intentionally deform a person's head as a status symbol (beauty is pain, right?). The Panzaleo (500 aC - 1533 dC) people used huge round pots decorated with human faces chewing coca or even with shrunken heads (tzantzas). The Panzaleo people would shrink their enemies heads after killing them in an effort to quell any attempts of revenge by their enemies' spirits. They also got a bit of their mojo by doing so. Finally, one of the earliest cultures known to have inhabited South America, the Valdivia (3800 - 1500 aC), created pottery specifically for inhaling hallucinogenic substances. The shamans would use stone jars shaped like cats (a powerful animal spirit) to hold these substances. The Valdivia also produced numerous figurines dedicated to depict femininity in all its stages and forms: a young girl, a woman menstruating, a pregnant woman, a girl going through puberty, etc. Gee, thanks!


I snapped a few photos of the pottery before I realized that I wasn't allowed to. And then I snapped a few more in the colonial art area. Curse this faulty memory of mine! :)




The Chorrera people (900-100 a.C.) created the whistle bottle in which water poured from said bottle recreates various animal sounds.




A bat even made it to the whistle bottle.




The figures of Jesus I've seen here have been rather disturbing. I understand that the intent behind these figures is not to make me feel happy and fluffy about the whole crucifixion, but the wounds depicted on these Jesuses are quite reminiscent of rotting flesh or leprous wounds. In some, the blood oozing from his side is 3D and looks like Play-Do spaghetti. In this one, his arms did not stay intact with his body and creates an even more horrific reaction within the observer. Yikes.




A gold monstrance to hold the Eucharist. Adorned with gold, silver, 993 diamonds, 143 rubies, 1156 emeralds, 46 topazes, and 1147 pearls. The Catholics invented decadence!





A very elaborate diorama from the 18th century. The Virgin Mary is surrounded by small cherubim, musical archangels, and the 12 apostles. I've never seen anything like it!


Many more museums to explore... :)

Sunday, March 7, 2010

¡¡¡Fútbol!!!

Yesterday, I attended my first official soccer game in Quito. For $8 each, we entered the Estadio Olímpico Ataualpa to watch la Liga Deportiva Universitaria play against Deportivo Quito. The pics I took were about a half hour before the game started so the stands don't appear to be too full. After the game had been in play for a little bit, my eyes drifted upwards from the field and I saw that the stadium was completely full: 35,000 fans. Most of the crowd was dressed in white jerseys for Liga, but there was a good handful dressed in red in support of the home team of that stadium.

























Liga scored a goal early on and the game stayed at 1-0 until the very end. I was quite lucky to be rooting for the winning team! :)



















The section of Quito fans here put on quite a show of their devotion. The red and blue smoke was accompanied by fireworks set off from the base of the stands and shot right over the field (we had a few from our side, too, that were a bit scary in their erratic flight patterns). This enormous banner engulfed the crowd sometime after the fireworks show. My new American friend Virginia and I asked our Ecuadorian compadres to write down one of the chants being shouted toward the Quito fans so now we've got at least ONE war cry to rely on. :)


One interesting thing I noticed was that there was a heavy police presence. As fans left the stadium, they chanted, "PIGS!, PIGS!, PIGS!" and threw their empty (or half-full) plastic bottles onto the field.

Foooood!!

Probably my favorite topic! Since I'm staying in the capital of Ecuador, there is a multitude of culinary offerings to whet the appetite. I've enjoyed Mexican burritos & tacos, American salads & sandwiches (sánduches), and several other tasty items. Yet, as far as Ecuadorian food, I've only tried a few items.

Two nights in a row this past week, my Ecuadorian friends took me to a neighborhood called La Floresta in which lies a string of street carts operated by folks wearing green aprons. This was a great place to enjoy really yummy food for very little money.















This guy is preparing sweet empanadas.
















I think this was a soup with some stuffed intestines. :)






















































No matter how long I chewed, I could not swallow the tripe samples being offered at this stand.






The man at this stand was like, "This girl is taking a picture of the fish!" Haha! I told him, "I know, I'm a weird American!"











The first night I went, I tried llapingacho which was quite delicious: potato pancakes of sorts with chorizo and beef garnished with shredded red beets and lettuce. Sorry, no pic. I was concentrating on eating! :) The second night I had chicken and rice with a few potatoes. Also, quite yummy. The next goal in my gastronomic quest is cuy (pronounced "kwee"), AKA guinea pig. I'm a little nervous about this one for a couple reasons. Someone told me (with vivid gestures) how the little guys are killed. Ick! In addition, I had a pet guinea pig named Gracie a few years ago. Granted, we didn't get along very well as she would bite me and eat holes in my towels or clothing, but still! We shall see...

Friday, March 5, 2010

Brief blog about prices

5 Liter bottle of H20 = $1.10

Vanilla cappuccino = $1.80

A huge and heavy plate of Ecuadorian food = $2.00

A bus ride = $0.25

One gallon of gas = $1.84

A taxi ride into the center of town from the airport = $6

A cocktail = $3.50

Ecuadorian Pilsener beer = $2.00

Primetime movie ticket = $3.50

General admission to soccer game = $8

Entrance to museum = $3.00

Traveling to a place where the dollar actually works in your favor = PRICELESS!!! :)


*Granted, some things are the same price as in the U.S. or more expensive even. So far, though, I'm lucky that the things I'm consuming are relatively inexpensive. :)

Monday, March 1, 2010

Cool Peeps

So I've met some pretty interesting people in the week and a half that I've been in this city. Here are some pics of new friends and acquaintances. I really hope I get everyone's name right. I'm much better at remembering faces!!! :)


Pablo, Me, Pablo's buddy Alex




Pablo's friend Angel and I


Jonathan and Carrie from PARKER, COLORADO
(right next to where I taught for 4 years for those who shrugged their shoulders)





Francisco, Francisco's girlfriend (he's going to kill me that I don't remember her name, but she was super nice!!!), Me, Moritz (Couch Surfer from Germany)



El Gato, Francisco's brother Manuel, Francisco, Manuel´s friendwho reminds me of my friend Ricky!



Moritz and I acting out a piece of Francisco's art (right behind us, not the creepy one)




Carlos (at the Sweeney Todd musical we saw together, hence the paper barber razor)


I've met some other cool people, too, but I think this is a good sampling for now. :)